The most impressive and distinctive element of the tribal style of costuming is the lush use of traditional jewelry. Tribal performers select pieces from the Berbers of Morocco to the Ribari of India. The adornment worn by tribal, nomadic and rural peoples continue to follow the ancient tradition of using jewelry as a condensed means of carrying wealth. Consequently, many pieces prominently feature coins as part of their decorative scheme. Most items are made from hard currency that has been melted down, resulting in few tribal pieces that, though silver colored, are pure silver in metal content.
This chapter will introduce the most common styles of jewelry worn by dancers today. Jewelry ranges in price from the affordable to the astronomical. An informed consumer is a powerful consumer. Do research on the types of pieces you are interested in purchasing so you can evaluate the condition and determine their values before you lay down the cash. Your jewelry is, without a doubt, the largest investment you will make in your tribal ensemble.
Creating a Dowry
Jewelry is expensive and purchasing a complete ensemble at one time
could cost hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars. In tribal societies,
a woman's dowry is accumulated by her family starting at a very young
age. Her collection is then amended after her marriage by her husband
and his family. Putting together a "dowry" from scratch can be a
daunting project. Financially, it represents the largest expense of
putting together a tribal costume. Pieces have to be sought out,
evaluated for quality and then purchased. It's a treasure hunt of
sorts that can take you from antique stores to flea markets, from your
favorite dance vendor to local bead shops and import stores.
With an entire wardrobe to build, where does one begin? That's a good question and one that is not easily answered. A dancer must weigh several issues when assembling her jewelry pieces. Budget is probably the most critical limitation that dancers face. Establishing a budget is the first step towards assembling a tribal jewelry wardrobe. Each dancer must determine how much of a financial investment she is willing to make towards creating her "look." A fabulous ensemble can be created at practically any price and, frequently, money can be saved through careful hunting and by filling the ensemble in with tribal-flavored pieces, reproductions and "filler" jewelry such as beads and shell necklaces.
Next on the list of considerations is availability. Finding tribal pieces can take time, effort and patience. Some dancers initially will purchase any pieces they can afford, banking on the notion that they will be able to resell or reuse items in new ways. In some areas, tribal jewelry is such a rarity that making purchases via mail order or the Internet becomes the only practical way of acquiring desirable pieces. Remember, you may wind up purchasing a few necklaces and pairs of earrings before you find the perfect bracelet that fits. Or you may start out small, with parts and pieces that can be simply strung on cord.
The rest of this chapter surveys the types and styles of jewelry from major regions and peoples of the Middle East: Turkomen, Moroccan, Arabian/Afghani, and India. The chapter concludes with tips for buying and combining jewelry pieces.