A Quarterly Newsletter dedicated to costume for Middle Eastern Dance, Danse Orientale, Raks Sharki, and Belly Dance.
 


 Summer 2002

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Costumer's Notes
Summer 2002

 

 

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Madame X Costumes Pattern 8903: A Review

Finding patterns to make Middle Eastern belly dance costumes can be a frustrating experience. There are only a few companies making patterns that cater to the special needs of dancers. One of the latest on the scene is Madame X Patterns. Her patterns are professionally printed, multisized and feature basic garment types that nearly every dancer has in her wardrobe.

Madame X is a talented woman, who has combined her training in graphic arts, love of Middle Eastern belly dance, and her skills as a costume designer. She has produced a small but well designed collection of patterns for dancewear. She maintains an excellent website with free directions for making many easy to use costume pieces. In addition, she has a directory for costume designers, dressmakers and seamstresses. This list is designed to be a resource for the dancer who wants a custom costume, but don't have the time or skills required.

Madame X has plans for expanding her pattern line over the next few years. During an interview in July, she revealed that her next pattern will be "The Basics" a collection of basic pieces including a circle skirt, pantaloons and bolero vest.

Pattern 9803

Madame X
Pattern 9803

Adjustable Ghawazee Coat & Turkish Vest

Madame X
Pattern 9802

Marvelous Mermaid and Fabulous Fishtail Skirt

Madame X
Pattern 9801

Adjustable Beladi Dress With Lacings


Order patterns on her website: www.madameXcostume.com

Why Madame X Patterns?

Her line, Raks Sharki Raiments, currently has three styles currently, with more on the way. This line of patterns has a lot of features you find in patterns by the major pattern companies.

Tissue Patterns - This style of printing saves a lot of space and is easy to store. The tissue makes it easy to make adjustments. If you are the kind of costumer that likes to take a pattern and do lots of experimentation, you may probably have lots of tissue scraps stashed for making changes.

Multi-sized - These patterns have multiple cutting lines for small through large sizes. The pattern directions have further instructions to expand the designs to super-size proportions.

Innovative Styling - Like the major pattern companies, these styles are both classic, but with innovative design features. Her technique for stitching on lacing is a brainchild and you can find this feature on both the Adjustable Beladi Dress #9801 and Adjustable Ghawazee Coat and Turkish Vest #9803.

Her patterns are easy enough so that a seamstress of moderate skill can put these designs together. The coat and dress patterns are designed to fit into a variety of dance styles and look as stunning made up in simple cotton or linen for wear to a Ren-fest or whipped up in opulent silk for wear with a glamorous beaded belt. The fishtail skirt is pure elegance with long smooth lines that flare when the dancer spins.

The model wears Madame X Adjustable Ghawazee Coat pattern #9803. Some of the distinctive features include the lovely draped split sleeves, adjustable lacings that follow princess lines. The v-neckline is very flattering, with a cut that reveals just enough, and not too much.

The costume pictured is made from cotton fabrics. The coat is made from heavy-weight green cotton gauze. The pants are a subtle brown on brown pattern quilting fabric that give the illusion of texture from a distance. Her hip treatment is composed of two parts. A toran is worn below a tassle belt with shi-sha mirror embroidery.

Tips - Use soft draping fabric in the dress and coat patterns so when you lace them up, the fabric will compress under the lacings. The pattern sizing runs a bit large. If you usually wear a large, you may want to compare measurements. I've found I use a Medium for a size 14. Read the directions carefully. The coat and dress has a facing piece that can be tricky to install and may be a new technique for a novice seamstress.

 

Nancy Klauschie - Massage Therapist owns "A Friend in Knead"
Wearing Madame X Pattern #9803 Adjustable Ghawazee Coat and Turkish Vest.
She made this ensemble using a simple t-tunic chemise with V neck
using the pattern layout in From Turban to Toe Ring. Instructions for the harem pants with cuff directions in Pants for the Dance.