Photo of Davina by Denis Way


 February 2001: Tribal Stylings

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The List: Tribal Costuming Essentials

There are an infinite number of options, variations and combinations of garments that will work for the tribal style dancer. More than any other style of Middle Eastern costuming, tribal costuming is about developing a wardrobe of mix and match pieces. Many dancers start out with a core of pieces that they build from to create different looks. One tribal belt and bra combination can be coordinated with a selection of garments, accessories and jewelry.

The tribal look is one of studied abundance. Dancers are covered with layers of pattern and textures created by the interplay of textiles and jewelry that swirl around their bodies. Everywhere that jewelry can be pinned is fair game for the tribal dancer.

Here is a list of what is considered by many to be the most essential tribal costuming pieces:

  • Turban Cloth ­ multiple clothes can be twisted together to get even more voluptuous looks.
  • Head Cloth or Turban Base ­ This helps the turban stick to your hair. Nubby linen or silk fabrics with lots of texture make excellent turban bases, but a plain bandana sized square of plain cotton fabric will work just fine.
  • Choli ­ There are two main varieties of choli, the stretch choli and the traditional choli. In India, tribal Ribari and Banjara women will skillfully cover their woven cotton cholis with shi-sha (mirror embroidery,) applique and embroidery. Stretch choli are usually made from cotton or silk blended with lycra. Stretch velvet is quite popular currently.
  • Tassel Belt ­ The tassel belt is made from yarn and frequently is mounted on a base covered with traditional Indian textiles, jewelry pieces, coins and cowry shells. These belts can come in both a fitted variety or, more commonly, that ties close at center front.
  • Hip Wrap ­ The hip wrap is worn under the tassel belt and is way to integrate different colors and patterns into the ensemble. Hip wraps can be as simple as a length of 18" fringe, or as complex as an embroidered textile with a row of small tassels. Sometimes these can be worn alone, or under a coin-style belt to protect the skirt.
  • Skirt ­ A very full, tiered or panel skirt is an essential piece that helps to create the distinctive tribal silhouette. Skirts can be extremely wide at the hem, and are made out of cotton, rayon or silk. Their fullness allows them to fly up when the dancer spins.
  • Pants ­ Because the skirts are full and fly up during dramatic spins, pants ­ known as pantaloons or salwar ­ are worn for modesty sake below the skirt.
  • Shoes ­ There are many options for shoes, but no matter the style, they must be smooth soled to allow for controlled spins.

Jewelry is essential for finishing off the tribal look. Most dancers wear jewelry on their turbans, at their throat, wrist, and some wear pieces as stomach drapes or on their feet. Dancers slowly acquire their dowry pieces as they progress in the world of dance, building up an ensemble. For more information on Jewelry read the Building a Dowry article.