Reversible Hip Wrap;
Costume construction technique
In my practice as a costume designer, I find that making garments
that are transformable, reversible or dual function is very satisfying,
and saves money for my clients. One of my favorite pieces to
make and sell is the Reversible Hip Wrap with Fringe. Stitched
with straight seams on any standard sewing machine, this is one
costume piece suitable for even a novice seamstress.
Materials:
One yard of inexpensive muslin or 'test' fabric for making the
pattern
One yard each of two pieces of contrasting or coordinating fabric
Thread
Fringe You will know the length after making the pattern
Twill Tape Again you will know the length after making
the pattern
Decorative trim to match your taste in wraps
Pattern Making Supplies:
String/ribbon/yarn to tie around hips
Tracing paper and wheel
Pins
Marking Pen or Pencil
Making the Pattern:
Step One: Measure from your hip bone, around your bottom
to your other hip bone. Don't pull the measuring tape to tightly,
and make sure it lays where you like to wear your favorite belt.
If you measure higher, the hip wrap will show above the line
of the belt.
Helpful Hints: To make this part easier, have a friend help
with the pattern making but be sure to help make them a pattern
as well. Be sure to wear a bodysuit or other close fitting garment
so that the measurements are as accurate as possible. You may
want to tie a piece of string or yarn around the body to mark
the hip line.
Step Two: Draw a line the length of the measurement
from step one across the top of your fabric and then cut your
piece to make a rectangle. Mark the center of this line.
Step Three: Pin this rectangle to your model. Light
up the center mark with her spine and pin to the back. Pin at
sides of body and top of hipbones. You will find that there is
fabric standing away from the body on either side in back. This
excess fabric will be formed into darts.
Step Four: Measure out from center back about 2 4
inches. If you are a smaller size, 2 inches will work fine (sizes
4 12) if you are a larger size you might want to use 3
inches (sizes 14 18) and if you are more goddess proportioned
you may need to use 3.5 4 inches as your measure. Make
a vertical mark at this point and pin to the body suit. This
is the Dart Mark.
Step Five: Starting at the side of the body, smooth
the fabric towards center back. Don't pull or tug. If you see
ripples forming, you are pulling to tight. The goal is to achieve
a good fit that skims over the body. When you have smoothed from
the side of the body towards the Dart Mark. You will find you
have created a nice pleat of fabric that is wide at the hip line
and tapers down to nothing over the swell of the bottom. Pin
the dart together, following the line of the body.
Step Six: Mark the dart legs, drawing down along your
pin line until you reach the end of the dart. Make sure to mark
both sides. At this time, adjust your top line, smoothing it
out. It will be slightly curved when you are done to accommodate
your dart.
Step Seven: Draw the shape of the bottom of your hip
wrap. This is the fun part of designing this garment. You get
to decide how low it hangs, if it will be pointed or rounded
and if there will be any additional shaping, such as dags, zig-zags
or other hemline treatments. Because this will ultimately be
a reversible garment, custom hem lines will be neatly finished
inside the garment. If you are a novice sewer, you may want to
start with either a simple curve or a point as illustrated in
the photographs.
Step Eight: Finish your pattern. Take the drape off
of the body. You should have one side of your pattern. Using
tracing paper and a tracing wheel, transfer the marks to the
other side. Make a seam allowance the width of your choice such
as 3/4 or 1/2. You will want to label and date your pattern and
indicate the seam allowance you have selected.
Step Nine: Make the pattern for the ties. The ties
are important for keeping the garment on, and you will need a
pattern for this piece as well. I generally use a length 12
20 inches long (20 inches gives more versatility when lending
this garment to other folks or selling it) and two inches wide.
Because the top of the hip wrap is at an angle, you will need
to transfer this shape to your tie pattern using tracing paper.
Order of Construction:
- Cut out all pieces Inside, Outside, four ties
- If you are going to apply a surface design to your fabric,
now's the time
- Stitch Darts closed.
- Attach Ties
- Pin top edge right sides together, from end of ties to end
of ties, making sure to line up Center Back, Sides, and darts.
For stability, use a piece of gros-grain ribbon or twill tape
in your seam. This will prevent the hip wrap from stretching.
Stitch together.
- Pin and stitch around the ties to the sides of the garment.
- If you a re going to use fringe. Sandwich the fringe between
the outside layers. If you are uncomfortable with doing this
as a one step process, you can sew the fringe to one side first,
then pin the second side over it.
- Stitch around the bottom edge, making sure to leave a 2 3
inch unstiched opening so you can turn the garment right-side
out.
- Clip corners and then turn garment.
- Press thoroughly and then slip stitch opening closed!
Now you have a multi use dance costume piece that will last
for years. These wraps are wonderful with tribal costumes, but
when made form elegant lace, satin, brocade or lame, this garment
can easily slip into a wardrobe with the most upscale of Bedlah.
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