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Fashion Fabrics for Middle Eastern
Dance Costumes
Many folks write to me asking for information about cloth
and textiles suitable for Middle Eastern Dance. Although most
home-sewers have experience working with plain woven or twill
cotton and rayon cloth, most seamstresses haven't had to tackle
the sumptuous, but difficult to stitch, fabrics that dancers
love. Here is a list of some of the glamorous, often difficult
to find fabrics popular with dancers today!
There are two main components in determining the way a fabric
drapes and moves, the fiber content and the weave structure.
There are four principle natural fibers used to make cloth. Cotton,
linen silk and wool. Other more rarely used fibers include ramie
and hemp. There are numerous synthetic fibers that are used in
the creation of the often shiny or sumptuous materials. Polyester
is the most common and is used to make everything from sheer
chiffon to dramatic brocades. Rayon, one of the oldest synthetic
fibers acts similarly to cotton and comes in many weaves and
in bright colors. Spandex has been a boon to dancers, in that
it imparts a great deal of stretch when blended with other fibers.
You can find spandex paired with both natural fibers like cotton
and with synthetics like polyester. Shine is often added to cloth
through the use of lurex, a mettalicized plastic thread that
is woven into cloth to give the impression of a high metal content.
The weave structure will also have a determining factor on
the drape of the fabric and on the texture of the surface. Most
fabrics are defined by their weave structure. Velvet for instance,
has a rich cut pile that can be made from silk, rayon, or polyester.
Satin, with features long floats on the surface can be found
in both silk and polyester versions. The biggest demarcation
in structure is between woven and knit. Woven fabrics are created
on a loom and are made through a process that passes threads
over and under to create a strong fabric that resists stretching
on the lengthwise grain. Knits, on the other hand, are made on
a knitting machine and are made from a series of loops that are
interlocking. If a loop gets snagged or pulled, a knit fabric
can run which can cause the breakdown of the structure. Knit
fabric has more give and flex than woven, and knits are used
extensively in sports wear.
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Polyester Jaquard
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Brocade: Perhaps
one of the most substantial of the fabrics used for dance costumes,
brocade is a heavily figured fabric made from a variety of threads
to create figures and patterns in the structure of the cloth.
Brocades can be made from a variety of fibers, but is most readily
available in silk, silk blends, rayon blends or polyester. These
fabrics are great for garments that require a bit more stiffness.
They are excellent for covering bras and belts, but make wonderful
vests and skirt-toppers too. Brocades require a thicker sharp
needle than other types of cloth. Dry cleaning is best for brocades
as their mixed fiber content can cause unusual shrinking which
can distort the pattern. |
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Chiffon and organza will drape differently
see how some fall straight down, while others spring away from
the bolt. Select the fabric that works best for your design.
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Chiffon: One
of the most enduring fabric in the repertoire of the belly dance
costume designer, chiffon is an excellent choice for making full
fluffy circle skirts and light floaty veils. Chiffon comes in
silk and polyester varieties, and in a wide variety of weights.
The polyester versions can be very economical for the beginning
costumer. Before you purchase a length of chiffon, make sure
to test the drape by unwrapping the bolt a few yards and holding
it up. Some chiffon is nearly as stiff as organza, so be sure
to test before you leave the store. Chiffon can be difficult
to work with because it has a tendency to creep and move as it's
passing through the sewing machine. Use a ballpoint needle and
a slow smooth speed for best results. French seams will give
that professional touch. Try a roll-hem foot for easy hemming
or edge with matching thread on a serger. |
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Cotton/Spandex Blends:
Used extensively in dance and sportswear, cotton/spandex blends
are used to make sports bras, leggings, unitards and leotards.
This fabric can be used to make knit cholis and matching leggings
to wear for practice or performance. Use a jersey or ballpoint
sewing needle and on a regular sewing machine, use a zigzag or
stretch stitch. A serger will make the most durable and flexible
seams. Wash in warm to cool water to preserve the fabric. Spandex
is sensitive to heat and should be allowed to hang dry to extend
the life of the garment. For the ultimate in strength and comfort,
try using wooly nylon thread while serging. The results are worth
the extra cost of the thread! |
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Crystal Organza:
This lightweight sheer fabric has a crisp hand that makes it
a good choice for double veils, decorate arm poufs and ruffles
at the bottom of straight skirts. The most widely available versions
are made from polyester and can be machine -washed and tumble-dried
on low setting. Use a fine sharp needle to stitch. Can be difficult
to hem, a rolled hem foot can help control the fabric make a
uniform even hem. |
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Eyelash Fabric
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Eyelash: A wild
pile fabric with wispy tendrils of plastic, polyester or lurex
threads, eyelash has become widely available as an evening fabric
alternative. The threads extend from a knit backing fabric allowing
some eyelash to stretch significantly. But it should not be used
as a stretch fabric, as the 'lashes' have a tendency to pull
out. It's very susceptible to friction and should be handled
with care. It is best used in large garment pieces like skirts
or sleeveless dresses. Dry-clean to preserve the surface of the
fabric. Eyelash has a tendency to make the body look heavier
because it can add nearly an inch visually to the figure on either
side. |
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Glitter Dot - Detail of Bag
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Glitter-Dot:
Closely related to liquid lamé, glitter dot is very popular
among high fashion designers and is readily available in fabric
stores. This fabric is a polyester knit with small shiny circles
heat bonded to the surface of the fabric. The difference between
the knit and the shine creates a distinctive texture and the
dots become highly reflective under bright lights. This fabric
can be difficult to work with. The circles are tough to sew through,
and yet, the backing would indicate a ballpoint needle to avoid
pulls and runs. A compromise is to try to stitch between the
dots using a fine ballpoint. The dots are susceptible to perspiration
that can cause discoloration or fading. Dry-clean for best results. |
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Lace: There are
many styles of costume that look wonderful with accents of lace.
All-over patterned lace is widely available, the most common
are made from acetate, nylon or polyester, but also look for
silk and linen varieties. It can be very sheer and light, or
heavy and embellished with beads and sequins. Lace is easy to
work with, as it generally doesn't fray. It can be sheer, and
for modesty it can be lined. There are literally hundreds of
varieties of lace on the market today with different characteristics,
patterns, shapes and styles. There are also lovely lace boarders,
which can trim almost any garment, from sleeves to hemlines.
Lace makes lovely skirts. It can be used as an accent as part
of a tiered skirt or as a panel in a gored or godet style. Stretch
lace is popular for body stockings but can make a stunning evening
gown styled dress. It's particularly nice with Gypsy and Flamenco
Fusion styles. Lace works very well in layered designs, allowing
the color of the lower fabric to show through. Use a sharp needle
for most laces. Stretch lace works best with a ballpoint needle
or by using a serger. |
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Lamé:
This type of fabric is available in two styles, tissue and foil
or liquid versions. Tissue lamé is a stiff brittle woven
fabric that is generally made from polyester and lurex, although
small amounts of actual metal might be impregnated in the threads
of the cloth. The foil or liquid variety is made from a knit
polyester with an applied surface of plastic heat bonded to the
surface. Because of the knit structure, foil or liquid versions
drape well and are sometimes available with spandex to allow
for stretch. Tissue lamé will crack when folded and the
fold lines will 'set' in the cloth and can become impossible
to remove. It also ravels and frays extensively making it difficult
to handle when making garments will small pieces. Tissue Lame
should be hand washed or dry cleaned. Make sure to use a sharp
needle and to change it frequently as tissue will dull the point,
leading to snags. Foil lamé should be stitched with a
ball point or jersey machine needle to prevent breakage to the
knit structure. It's susceptible to heat and perspiration that
will make the foil surface darken or discolor. Foil versions
can be successfully hand washed in cool water, lay flat to dry. |
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Sequined, Beaded and Mirrored: In fine fabric stores
with large evening or bridal sections, you can find fabric with
beads and sequins already stitched onto the cloth. This expensive
fabric can save a lot of time and money because even though it's
expensive, it's ready to stitch into a design immediately. Long
evening-style dresses look especially well in sequined and beaded
fabric. Keep the lines of the garment simple to reduce the amount
of work and yardage. These kinds of fabrics are usually quite
heavy. They can be found in both woven and knit varieties and
on polyester or silk backing fabric. Always test drive a pattern
to perfect the fit and style before cutting out the design in
beaded and sequined fabric.
I like to pick all the beads/sequins out of the seam allowance
before sewing. A zipper foot will smoothly guide the fabric along
the beaded/sequined edge. Use sharp fine sewing needles and be
prepared for breakage if you hit a bead/sequin. Lining this type
of fabric will make the garment more comfortable to wear for
long periods. Avoid sitting in full-length gowns as sequins can
crush. Sequins are also easily damaged by perspiration. If you
are making a garment with sleeves, consider making or installing
underarm protection. It's old fashioned, but well worth the effort
to preserve the expensive cloth. Cutting will damage shears.
If you like this style of fabric and work with it frequently,
you might want to invest in good quality scissors to dedicate
to the purpose of cutting sequined fabrics.
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Imported Dupioni silk in a variety of
colors. Popular fabric from India has a slubby surface and a
firm body.
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Silk - Dupioni, Charmeuse,
China Silk: Silk is the most prized of the natural fibers
because of its strength, high sheen and ease of dying. Today,
long flowing silk veils are one of the most popular dance accessories.
Because of the proliferation of silk dyes on the craft market,
creating your own personal design statement has become easier
than ever! China silk is one of the most common styles used for
these gorgeous hand-dyed veils. Smooth flowing charmeuse, satin
or even plain weaves can create lovely skirts, dresses and accent
garments. Dupioni is a firmly woven imported Indian style silk
that is substantial and has a high sheen. This style is excellent
for straight skirts, fitted dresses, vests and coats. There are
many more styles, but those are the most popular. Also look for
silk chiffon, silk velvet and brocades. Always test wash a swatch.
While silk is hand washable, many imported fabrics have dyes
that may run. Test a scrap, if your dye seems to move, run or
crock, dry-clean only. Use very fine sharp needles to stitch
silk. |
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Swimsuit: Although
it may seem odd, swimsuit fabrics have been gaining popularity
among designers in the Middle East. Because of its ability to
stretch and hold, this fabric is an excellent choice for elegant
stretch dresses, tightly fitted sarongs or straight skirts. Sleek
Egyptian-style beladi dresses can be easily made from more substantial,
textured or subtly patterned swim fabrics. In some areas, sheer
mesh swimsuit fabric is available, which can be used to create
elegant cutouts in solid or patterned fabric but can also be
used to whip up custom tummy covers. When applying beads, appliques
or fringe, remember that this fabric is very sensitive to stretch.
All beadwork needs to be backed with a supportive interfacing
to prevent your threads from breaking under the strain. Because
swim fabric is extremely heat sensitive, avoid using fusible
webbing that requires too much heat or pressure. If you need
to press this style of fabric, always do so from the back using
very low heat and a press cloth. |
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Stretch velvet with applied glitter pattern.
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Velvet: Perhaps one of the most sumptuous and rich
fabrics readily available, velvet is one of the few designer
fabrics that most fabric stores keep on hand year round. Velvet
is a pile fabric made from loops that are then cut to create
a rich thick surface. Because of this pile nature, velvet has
a distinct nap. If you run your hand across the fabric with the
nap, the pile will lay smooth and will appear 'lighter' than
if you run y our hand against the nap. When making velvet garments,
it's important to keep this in mind and layout all pattern pieces
with the top pointing to the same direction.
Velvets are also available in stretch varieties and are popular
for making cholis and bodysuits. Silk velvet is more expensive,
but has a luster that is unmatched by less expensive rayon/poly
blends. Panné velvet has a pattern pressed into the cloth,
either all in one direction to create a more reflective surface,
or in swirls, waves or geometric designs. Velveteen is an easy
to wash cotton version with a shorter pile and is excellent for
pieces that come in contact with the body. Devoré, burnout
or cut velvet has figures or patterns cut into the fabric and
the sheer backing cloth is visible, creating differences in texture
that highlight the pattern. Velvet can be dyed or painted and
if you want a custom devoré look, there is a product called
Fabric Etch, which allows the costumer to create her own designs.
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Next Issue: Imported
Textiles for Tribal and Folkloric Costuming |
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