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Rakkasah West 2001 Trend Report
This is my fourth annual Rakkasah trend report. Now that
there are two Rakkasah's, I hope that someone will pick up the
torch in October and report on all the new trends that will,
undoubtedly appear, as the year goes on. Unlike previous years,
I made an effort to visit the tables and really take a look.
With pen in hand, I took notes on the major themes in costuming
today. There were some wonderful things available this year,
and some things, sadly that weren't. I was disappointed that
Sugar Petals was not there this year! Also, a lot of the vendors
have 'grown' with larger spots. What does this mean? Well,
there were fewer smaller and independent dealers there.
Many vendors are now promoting their web sites using large banners
and business cards that proudly proclaiming their Internet locations.
With this trend towards worldwide availability of goods, the
pressure to shop 'now' seems to have lifted a bit. Dancers can
now shop on-line for the basics such as shimmy-belts, spandex
body wear and accessories. In addition, there seemed to be fewer
businesses with catalogs for sale. Having an on-line catalog
means instant updates no printing costs and is really a boon
for the dance consumer. So even if you didn't make it to Rakkasah,
many of the vendors can be accessed from on-line sites.
General Comments
Color There seemed to be three major trends in color
today. The newest freshest colors came directly from floral,
fruit and the bright colors of nature. Pinks weren't just pink;
there were rich carnations and fuchsia. Blues were rich and vibrant
while purples could run from light lavender to deep rich colors.
Turquoise was VERY popular with many different Egyptian, Turkish
and American designers. From pale sea-foam to rich warm aqua
to light bright icy blue-greens, there was a lot of variations
available in this color range. Other popular fruity colors this
year included peach, nectarine, raspberry and cherry.
Sherbert colors and frosty cool pastels were also very popular.
Those bright acid citrus colors of the last three years have
gotten softer. Light lemony hues, icy oranges and cool limes
were all represented in both bra and belts sets and evening style
dance gowns. It seems like the neon colors popular in the late
'90's have segued into an array of lighter softer colors.
Rich deep jewel tones continue to be quite popular, but with
a greater emphasis on red-based hues. Rich deep wines, from burgundy
to Bordeaux, rich dark blood reds, amethyst, ruby and other reddish
jewel tones were especially prominent in both high-glam and tribal
costume styles.
Shimmy Belts There were shimmy belts on many dealers'
tables. From simple triangles with a simple edge of coins, to
flashy ankle length half skirts with tiers of beads, there was
a shimmy belt for every taste, and at most price points. But
there were a few trends that I saw upon examining these belts
closely. First, they are coming in larger sizes. Since more
than half the women I know who dance are a size 14 or beyond,
it was a treat to see a growth in the market to address this
segment of the dance population. Longer hip belts that not only
reach around the front with longer ties, but also have rows of
coins and beads that extend all the way around to the front!
Matching shimmy bras have begun springing up as well to create
complete matching ensembles.
Assuit No matter if you like contemporary, vintage
or faux versions, assuit was hot hot hot! Assuit could be found
made into a variety of different types of costumes. From loose
flowing tunics to tight fitted skirts, from hip wraps to matching
bra and belt sets, assuit experienced an upsurge of popularity
this year. Even plain assuit yardage was available for dancers
interested in building their own costumes.
Cutouts One stylistic feature that appeared in a
variety of different permutations was the presence of cutouts.
In dramatic evening gowns, the cutouts were most frequently
filled with mesh fabric to maintain the integrity of the shape
of the gown. In tightly fitted skirts, cutouts in the shape
of circles, diamonds, lattice, ovals and more were positioned
over the tops of thighs or down the sides. Stretch choli were
available in cold-shoulder styles with cutouts to reveal the
shoulder of the dancers. There were also bras, built into vests
with shoulder and back cutouts. Even some Turkish style belts
had cutouts that allowed parts of the hips and bottom of the
dancer to be on view through the costume!
Rhinestones Perhaps this year, more than any in
the recent past, designers have been turning to rhinestones to
add shine, glamour and drama to costumes. AB's, aurora borealis
rhinestones were popular this year, while jewel toned stones
were also popular and appeared on hundreds of costumes available
from a range of vendors throughout Rakkasah.
Stitch-on Acrylic Stones Large dramatic acrylic
stones were sprouting up on all sorts of bra and belt sets.
From simple rows of large stones, to complex designs built up
from smaller stones with large centerpieces, there were many
permutations to choose from. Stitched on stones are the hallmarks
of a quality costume.
Bra and Belt Sets
Sculptured Bras Bras were coated with surface embellishments
this year with little or no fringe. The most high-style cutting
edge fashions included sculpted stone-encrusted bra cups with
little or no beaded fringe. Centrally positioned fringe, either
straight drops or swags
Straight Skirts Without a doubt the most popular
style on all of the tables this year. Complete matching sets,
with bra and belt, skirt and accessories seemed to be skimping
on materials relying on straight skirt styles that require less
time to manufacture and less cloth and trim. Fuller skirts were
generally difficult to locate, but a few were available if you
hunted. By Sunday, most full skirts were gone, illustrating
a need for vendors to supply fuller skirts. Skirts with matching
veils also seemed to be in short supply as well.
Skirts attached to belts For skirts with cutouts
up the side or down the front, attaching the skirt to the belt
is important to keep the skirt from twisting and possibly revealing
something inappropriate. This feature seemed to be especially
prevalent in Turkish style bedlah sets.
Dance Gowns
Swimsuit Fabrics One of the most striking and exciting
things I noticed when perusing the merchandise on the tables
was the increase of dresses. There were many more full-on evening
gown styles out of stretch velvet, textured spandex-poly blends,
but most interesting to me from the perspective of new trends
was the appropriation of swimsuit fabric. From bright oranges,
wild animal prints to dark rich jewel tones, geometric prints
and ombre fabric.
Cutouts and mesh With the hot trend towards cutouts,
dresses revealed more and more. From little peeks down the center
front, to entire cut away sides, mesh was used to hold the structural
integrity of the dress. Cutouts were rimmed with sequins on
strings, mounted on stretchy base strings to allow them to stretch
with the garment. Glued rhinestones were also a popular choice,
as well as individually stitched stones, paillettes and individual
sequins.
Hem lines Car-wash style hems, that hung from the
knee in two three inch strips were popular. Asymmetrical
cuts, long slits over one leg, and skirts tight to the knee,
but with a full deep ruffle to allow movement were other common
design features.
Beaded dresses - Crocheted tunics with beads and paillettes
that have been popular for several seasons seemed harder to locate
this year. Shimmy dresses seemed, however, to be holding their
own. Coated with either fringe, loosely mounted paillettes or
bead clusters, shimmy dresses seemed to be made primarily of
standard colors of black, jewel toned colors and bright primaries.
Tribal and Gypsy Fusion
In general, there were more vendors of tribal style costuming
pieces and jewelry! More was the key operative descriptive when
it came to tribal costumes as well. Layers upon layers of sumptuous
textiles and jewelry were the order of the day. Hybrid styles
that fuse Fantasy Gypsy, Folkloric and Tribal created some very
distinctive looks. As dancers circulated the show, it was fun
to match the tribal dancers to their troupes! I saw a lot of
interesting trends. Tribal style Bras worn without a choli beneath
seemed to be one new trend. There were many displays of hair
as well, with troupes exchanging braids or dreads for their turbans.
Tribal/ Folkloric blends Long Gawazee coats, Yelics,
Anteri and other styles of coats were quite popular in several
tribal groups. When worn with pants, skirts or both, these ensembles
brought a new flavor to the tribal style. Some troupes choose
to wear long flowing chemises under their choli and skirts, giving
their ensembles a more historical feel.
Tribal/Gypsy Fusion There seem to be a big upsurge
in Gypsy-style costuming pieces available. Some vendors seemed
to blend Gypsy both with Tribal and Folkloric styles. Full flowing
skirts with tiers of ruffles or circle skirts with rows of flounces
were available from many vendors this year. The beauty of these
Gypsy style skirts is that they can be worn tribal style with
choli and tassel belt or dressed up with bedlah. One full fluffy
skirt can be an excellent wardrobe extender and at Rakkasah this
year, there were many to choose from!
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